| Sora friedman September 11 in the West Bank (written on September 16 by Sora Friedman)
I arrived in Ramallah on Monday afternoon, September 10, my first trip to the Middle East. My work there with World Learning is a project funded by the U.S. Agency for International Development to provide support to Birzeit- University, the leading Palestinian university. Through the project, we are upgrading the school's financial management system so that it can track budgets, expenditures, costs, etc., according to generally accepted accounting procedures, to receive clean audits. The ultimate goal is for the university to continue its service as one of Palestine's leading non-governmental organizations.
Tuesday was a busy day. Meetings started at 8 a.m. and continued non-stop until 4 p.m. I was taken back to my hotel for a break before our evening meetings began, and turned on the television as I prepared for a nap. The first plane had just hit in New York, and I couldn't understand what I was seeing. As I continued to watch, the second plane hit. I had seen it approach, and I assumed that it was a small military plane going in to assess damage. When it didn't show up on the other side of the building, but was replaced by another explosion, the horror started to sink in. I called my husband and left a message for him at work about what had happened and asked him to call his daughter Kait, who goes to college in Manhattan. She had just begun an internship downtown somewhere, and I was praying that she was not directly affected.
By that time, I was supposed to be downstairs to prepare for my evening meeting. My colleague Somida Al-Abbas was already there, and we both agreed that the meeting could not take place. In fact, the lobby television was on and everyone was glued to his or her place. As I sat down, they immediately turned the channel to an English-language station and inquired about my family. I told them about Kait, and they were quick to reassure me that surely she was safe. Comments were made about the sick irony of how concerned my family had been about my travel to the Mid-east while in fact, the worst was taking place at home. Meanwhile, the consultants with whom we were supposed to meet had arrived. After shaking my hand and expressing their concern, they sat with us. Shortly thereafter my project counterpart, Birzeit Vice-president for Finance and Administration Carmela Armanious also arrived. It was only when I saw her concerned face that I started to cry. Carmela's daughter had left three weeks earlier to start college in Indiana. She gave me a hug and sat down with us.
Now, you have to understand that everyone in the Middle East carries a cell phone, even more so than in the United States. As suicide bombs go off in Tel Aviv, as Arabs are delayed at checkpoints, as there is a constant state of tension no matter where you are, perhaps the only sense of security comes from knowing that you have instant access to family in case of emergency. So one of my strongest impressions is everyone offering me their cell phones, as the land lines to the States were not getting through. People called my husband and mother repeatedly for me, and the hotel receptionist was on alert to immediately pass along any calls from the States. Unfortunately, it took several hours until my husband was able to contact me, but by then, he had heard from Maggie, my younger stepdaughter. Maggie had received an e-mail from Kait saying that she was OK.
For the next four hours, we sat glued to the television in the lobby as reality began to sink in. As Palestinian hotel guests entered the reception area, they came and shook my hand, expressing their concern and support and inquiring as to my family's safety. Carmela invited me to stay at her home so that I would not be alone, and one person who runs a hospital offered me transport to Tel Aviv via ambulance, the only way to get through the checkpoints quickly. The university president called four times that evening to insure that I was OK; others offered food and drink. Mostly, it was comforting not to be alone; I would have gone crazy if I were.
As we watched, discussion turned to who could have done such a thing and the event's effects on the Mid-east. My colleagues understood immediately that this would affect them in several ways. As the media began to focus on possible Muslim/Arab/Mid-east connections, they knew that they could be scapegoated. They understood that any momentum for the peace process would be lost as the world's eyes focused on New York. They also feared that Israel might take advantage of the situation and clamp down on the Palestinians. That fear was confirmed the next night with increased fighting in Jenin, a town in the north. Mostly, they continuously expressed concern for me and my family and disgust at the action itself.
That night, CNN showed shots of Palestinians celebrating the attack on the United States in the streets. At one point, they said it took place in Nablus; at another, in Ramallah. My hotel was about five blocks from Ramallah's city center, and I had kept my balcony door slightly open for some fresh air. Never did I hear people yelling or clapping, or horns honking.
It is hard for me to express just how kind, caring, and supportive the Palestinians were to me. I think I would have broken down with concern and sorrow had I been alone, but in fact, I was never alone. The president of the university continued to call, and the vice-president came by the hotel to sit with me. When we went out for a brief walk or cup of coffee, total strangers came up to me to express their concern and to inquire about my family. And yes, by this time my colleagues knew that I am Jewish. It did not matter to them.
Wednesday afternoon was the only time that I considered leaving Ramallah early. By then, information about the hijackers was being released and I wondered if there would be any anti-American sentiment. However, the streets remained quiet and I decided that I was better off staying where I was. Somida and I reorganized some meetings for Wednesday night, and although conversation never strayed far from the events in New York, it actually felt good to focus on work for a while.
I left Ramallah Thursday morning as originally planned. I had to walk through the dusty checkpoints, crowded with Palestinians and guarded by young Israelis with automatic weapons. I knew that my U.S. passport was a shield from the Israelis, and I felt my Palestinian colleagues were a shield against any anti-American sentiment that might have come up. In fact, I never saw any or heard any.
Back in Tel Aviv, I continue to be concerned about safety, as was the case before Tuesday's events. How sad to be in such a magical place and not be able to explore. Thought I feel safe in the hotel, I have not left it since Thursday except to go to the airport twice to try to get a flight home. Even an apparent paradise feels like jail when all you want is to be home.
I had hoped to leave on Thursday's flight, but it was cancelled after a 10-hour wait in the airport. One interesting thing did happen there, though. With luck, I had been bumped up to first class, and so, I was able to spend those hours in the first-class lounge. While in line, I learned that former Senator Frank Lautenberg (from New Jersey) was also on the flight after meeting with Sharon and Peres about regional politics. About 1 a.m. or so, I noticed that his aides were elsewhere so I went to him, stuck out my hand, and introduced myself. I asked if he was in Israel working on the peace process and he confirmed that he was. I told him that I had been in Ramallah on Tuesday and that he needed to know about my experience there. He looked at me and invited me to sit with him for a few minutes. We found a private spot and he listened as I relayed how Palestinian colleagues and strangers showed me kindness and support during those sad days. He asked about the project, World Learning and Birzeit University, and Palestinians' perspectives in general about what had happened. I tried to convey the sentiments of my colleagues as impartially as possible. At the end of the talk, I told him there was one other thing that he should know--that my colleagues knew that I am Jewish. He smiled and wished the project well.
The past few days have seen random violence and verbal attacks against Muslims/Arabs/Mid-east countries. It is very clear to me that the acts of a few do not represent the will of the many. Did Tim McVeigh speak for the entire United States? Perhaps the acts of these few Palestinians who helped me do not speak for the many either. All I know is that in my time of crisis, they were the ones who were there for me. When they could have whisked me back to Tel Aviv, they invited me to stay so that they could look after me themselves and keep me company. If Palestinians who deeply love their land and heritage can show such genuine support and friendship to this Jewish girl, then I will not lose hope that others also can look beyond religious or political labels and reach out for peace.
|
|